The directional spreading of surface wave in the shallow water zone

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姓名

盧光輝(Quang Huy Lu) 查詢紙本館藏

畢業系所

水文與海洋科學研究所

論文名稱

The directional spreading of surface wave in the shallow water zone
(The directional spreading of surface wave in the shallow water zone)

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摘要(中)

The aim of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the directional spreading when waves propagate into the shallow water zone, North-West in Taiwan. Water elevation data from 3 ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) deployments during 15 Jan – 1 Feb (2011); 26 May – 22 Jun (2011) and 21 Feb – 16 Mar (2012) were recorded and used to calculate the directional spreading. The three experiments were in Yongan observation field (the 1st at 2 stations; the 2nd at 3 stations; and the 3rd at 2 stations). The Extended Maximum Likelihood Method (EMLM) was applied in this study by DIWASP toolbox to estimate the spreading parameters smax and σmin. The variation of smax and σmin will describe the variation of directional spreading. In frequency domain, the directional spreading parameters show opposite results in different deployments. The directional spreading in the 1st and 2nd deployments do not follow the refraction law while the 3rd one does. In the time domain, the variation of spreading parameters reveals the semi – diurnal oscillations. The comparison between directional spreading and other factors (significant wave height, tidal elevation and current speed) show the dependency of directional spreading on the variation of tidal current in the wave-current interaction.

摘要(英)

關鍵字(中)

★ shallow water zone
★ wave spectrum
★ directional spreading

關鍵字(英)

★ wave spectrum
★ directional spreading
★ shallow water zone

論文目次

ABSTRACT…………………………………………………………………………………….i
CONTENTS……………………………………………………………………………………ii
LIST OF GRAPHS……………………………………………………………………………iii
LIST OF TABLES…………………………………………………………………………...viii
LIST OF SYMBOLS………………………………………………………………………….ix
Chapter 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………1
1.1. Research motivation……………………………………………………………………….1
1.2. Research purpose………………………………………………………………………….1
Chapter 2. Literature Review………………………………………………………………..3
2.1. The directional frequency spectrum……………………………………………………….3
2.2. Methods to calculate directional spectrum………………………………………………...3
2.3. Directional spreading……………………………………………………………………...7
2.4. Effects of refraction to the directional spreading………………………………………….8
2.5. Effects of nonlinear wave-wave interactions to the directional spreading………………10
2.6. Spreading parameters…………………………………………………………………….11
Chapter 3. Data processing…………………………………………………………………15
3.1. Sources and pre-processes data…………………………………………………………..15
3.2. Wave data processing…………………………………………………………………….18
3.3. Wave directional spectrum processing…………………………………………………...21
3.4. Estimate the spreading parameters……………………………………………………….24
Chapter 4. Results and Discussions………………………………………………………...26
4.1. Variation of spreading parameters……………………………………………………….26
4.2. Comparison of the spreading parameters and the related factors variation……………...42
Chapter 5. Conclusions……………………………………………………………………...76
REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………………..78

參考文獻

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指導教授

錢樺(Chien Hwa)

審核日期

2012-8-29

推文