正在吃什麼?談新埔地區的飲食記憶與變遷;The Transformation of Food Memory in Xinpu

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题名:	正在吃什麼?談新埔地區的飲食記憶與變遷;The Transformation of Food Memory in Xinpu
作者:	范譯云;Fan, YI-Yun
贡献者:	客家政治經濟研究所
关键词:	新埔;飲食文化;飲食記憶;後現代;Xinpu;food culture;food memory;postmodern
日期:	2018-02-26
上传时间:	2018-04-13 11:09:34 (UTC+8)
出版者:	國立中央大學
摘要:	自1980年後，民主化浪潮及觀光休閒風氣逐步開化，飲食文化隨著經濟政治的發展，其經濟價值顯得相當重要，並且已由環境空間的制約轉為政治、經濟與符號等意象鉗制人們對自身族群飲食的認知與記憶，呈現不同於傳統的飲食文化型態。對於新埔來說，人群在不同時空背景下，如何用在地飲食與記憶來建構一地的飲食文化，又如何反推影響自身族群的飲食內涵而使其豐富性與多元性？在消費文化下的社會，本文以詹明信的後現代文化角度討論，且試圖將新埔在地的客家飲食記憶與飲食活動兩者間連結，並被視為後現代的日常生活與實踐，找出屬於新埔地區的飲食記憶與在地食事。本研究認為飲食記憶通過時間的承襲致使新埔飲食內外部逐漸現代化，並進入後現代的情境中，連結消費社會運用模擬、仿造等符號化過程，讓新埔地區的飲食景觀與客家料理的內涵於過去和現代間交錯而使其混雜化，重要的是，在不斷嫻熟於生產、購買與品嚐客家美食背後，投射在新埔地區的飲食記憶裡，是展現自我成長與自身族群飲食文化的新一頁。;Since the 1980s, the wave of democratization and the trend of tourism and leisure have gradually taken off. With the development of economy and politics, the value of food culture has become very important. The food has been shifted from the environmental to the images of politics, economy and symbols. It contributes cognition and memory of their own ethnic food that showing different from the traditional food culture patterns. According to the different era, how to use local food and the memory of food to build local food culture? And, how to enrich the connotations of ethnic food? Hence, in order to find out the food memories and food activities belongs to Xinpu particularly. Based on postmodernism, this paper tries to link the food memory and food activities of Xinpu in the society of consumption culture, which is regarded as practicing in the postmodern daily life. What is more, this paper indicate that the food memory inherits the inside and outside of Xinpu food. It gradually through the inheritance of time and enters into the postmodern situation, linking the consuming society with the symbolic process of simulation and reproducible so that mixed up the connotation of food landscape and Hakka cuisine in Xinpu. Most important of all, after being adept at producing, purchasing and tasting Hakka cuisine, the food memories projected in Xinpu that reflect the self-growth and make a new page on the ethnic food culture.
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