摘要: | 中文摘要 台灣的美容技藝自傳統的挽面技術式微後,在1980年代才開始進入產業化的發展,化妝品科技進步、女性就業市場增加與傳媒文化的普及皆是美容產業快速生長的原因。目前存在的美容技藝是在雷同的功能性技藝中的勝利者,而餘者成為勝利者的養分。 本研究探討台灣戰後1950年迄今美容技藝於各時期呈現的樣貌與傳承的情形,目前有關美容技藝如何被傳承與演變的文獻尚未有較深入的討論。本研究運用內容分析、深度訪談及文獻分析三種研究方式,研究結果將美容技藝的產業發展區分為傳統美容、化妝品美容、醫學美容、瘦身美容及SPA休閒美容五個階段,美容技藝傳承的路徑分為企業訓練與技術職業教育。 本研究針對美容企業訓練部分詳細介紹各時期的美容技藝差別,從面部走向身體,從皮膚走向皮下組織。隨著消費資本主義的興起,傳播媒體放送企業想要呈現的內容給大眾。 本研究運用美容系科名稱變化的分析,得知企業訓練的內容要早於技職教育,例如化妝品產業要早於化妝品相關科系、美容技職教育的出現要晚於其他類的 技職教育。雖然業界對產品及儀器的應用早於學界,但美容技職教育墊高了美容技藝的知識面,而業界著重如何在技術層面落實美學訓練,學界滿足社會對於美學養成的期待。 美容技藝在各時期呈現的樣態皆隱喻著當時的社會風氣,美容知識從口耳相傳、影像傳播到系統性的傳承方式,經歷了家政科的小小分支到美容專門學科。這顯示台灣社會對於美容技藝的重視。美容技藝在每一個時期呈現的是主流審美觀的替換。透過本研究解釋台灣美容技藝發展的狀態,藉以得知美容技藝目前在台灣呈現的主要特色是否為台灣社會普遍認同的美容知識。
;Abstract Taiwan′s beauty craft began to enter the industrialization development in the 1980s after the fading of traditional face-threading craft. The advancement of cosmetics technology, the increase in the female employment market and the popularization of the media culture are the reasons for the rapid growth of the beauty industry in Taiwan. The currently surviving beauty craft are the winners in the same functional craft, and the rest become the winner′s nutrients. This study explores the appearance and inheritance of beauty craft in Taiwan during the post-war period from 1950 to the present. The current literature on how beauty craft are inherited and evolved has not been discussed in depth. This research uses three research methods: content analysis, in-depth interview and literature analysis. The research shows that the industrial development of beauty craft can be distinguished as five stages: traditional beauty, cosmetics beauty, medical beauty, slimming beauty and SPA leisure and beauty. The path of beauty craft inheritance can be divided into corporate training and technical vocational education. This study focuses on the beauty training of the beauty business in detail, from the face to the body, from the skin to the subcutaneous tissue. With the rise of consumer capitalism, the media broadcasts what the beauty business wants to present to the public. This study uses the analysis of the changes in the name of the beauty department, and shows that the appearance of corporate training is earlier than the beginning of the vocational education. For example, the appearance of cosmetics industry is earlier than the coming of cosmetics-related department, and the appearance of beauty vocational education is later than the beginning of other types of vocational education. Although the industry′s application of products and instruments is earlier than the academic world, the beauty and vocational education has raised the knowledge of beauty craft, while the industry focuses on how to implement aesthetic training at the technical level. The academic community meets the society′s expectations for aesthetic development. The appearance of beauty craft in various periods is a metaphor for the social atmosphere at that time. The beauty knowledge has passed from word of mouth, image transmission to systematic inheritance, and from the small branch of the home economics department to the beauty specialty. This shows that Taiwanese society attaches importance to beauty craft. The replacement of different types of mainstream aesthetics makes the different kind of beauty craft in each period. Through this study, I explain the state of beauty craft development in Taiwan, so as to know whether the main features of beauty craft currently presented in Taiwan are related to the knowledge of beauty of Taiwanese society. |