| 摘要: | 隨著社會生活型態的轉變，頗具客家特色的經典食材蘿蔔乾，在生產、分配和消費模式的整體結構歷經極大的變化，由日常生活的飲食食品，蛻變成在生產組織、製作人力、產品類型、內容原料、取得場所、使用環境、遞送方式、象徵意涵等側面，全面商品化和多元化的食品。過往客家人因物資匱乏，善於巧思的女性將青菜回收，研發防腐存糧的技藝。迄今「鹹」和「香」依然是客家菜著名的口味，尤其以蘿蔔乾最具代表性，堪稱是客家飲食文化重要的元素。然而，目前蘿蔔乾的文獻，侷限於族群認同與象徵層面的論述，而漠視對產業文化的關注。本研究以桃園市為個案，援引文化經濟取徑食物商品系統的分析架構，試圖詳實完整呈現蘿蔔乾在生產、分配與消費三個層面的探究，並運用半結構深度訪談法，訪談蘿蔔乾的生產者、中介者與消費者，與實地觀察法進入工作場域觀察。經踏查與訪談後，發現常見的蘿蔔有七種品種，食用方式分為生食、熟食與食品加工。原料除了自家栽種，尚遍及中南部，雖然醃製工序煩瑣但大同小異，蘿蔔乾的品質與風味，亦因品種、採收期、天候與醃製技藝等而有差異。儲存方式有四種，放在玻璃瓶(32%);放在塑膠袋(29%);放在冰箱(17%);與其他約6%。銷售管道遍及各地，傳統市場(47%);自家販售(16%);超市(6%);南北雜貨(5%);寄賣(5%);其他地區(21%)。大多數小販用塑膠袋包裝蘿蔔乾，與農產品、醃漬物或菜乾陳列在地上、菜籃或置物架上等。隨著新的現代飲食消費，最常被加工業者烹?成菜脯蛋(22%);老菜脯雞湯(13%);粄類(34%)，與其他。甚至呈現新的發展，以吸引不同的族群或世代體驗。;Following the transformation of social lifestyle, dried radish, a traditional Hakka specialty food, underwent drastic structural changes in terms of production, intermediary, and consumption mode. Dried radish had transformed from daily food into a comprehensive commercialized and diversified commodity in terms of production structure, manpower, product type, material, origin, usage, transportation, and symbolic meaning. In the past, due to food scarcity, Hakka females recycled vegetables and invented technique for preservation to stockpile food stocks. To date, “salty” and “fragrance” is still the taste of Hakka dishes, especially with dried radish being the most representative and was also called as a key element in Hakka’s diet culture. However, the current literature on dried radish were limited in ethnic identity and symbolic discourses, disregarding the importance of cultural industry. This research uses Taoyuan City as a case study and the analysis structure of cultural economics on food products in order to explore the production, intermediary, and consumption of dried radish. In addition, semi-structured depth interview with producers, intermediaries, and consumers along with field observation of dried radish processing plant was conducted as well. Through field observation and interview, there were seven common type of radish products which can be consumed raw, cooked, or processed. Apart of home-grown, the raw materials were collected from central and southern parts as well. Although the marinating procedure was complicated, it was similar. The quality and taste of the dried radish was affected by the difference in type of radish, harvest period, weather and technique of margination. There were four types of storage method: around 32% was stored in glass canisters, 29% in plastic bags, 17% in refrigerators, and others around 6%. The sales channel extends all over the place, around 47% in traditional markets, 16% home-sale, 6% in supermarkets, 5% in grocery stores, 5% consignment, and 21% was sold to other areas. Most traders used plastic bag to pack the dried radish and sold it along with other pickles or dried vegetables on the floor, in a basket or on a shelf. Along with the new trend in food consumption, dried radish was mostly cooked into egg dishes (22%), soup dishes (13%), and cake dishes (34%),and others . There was also new development in order to attract various consumers or generations to try dried radish. |
