自古以來，飲食一直是人民生活中很重要的一部分。食，最基本的功用就是在延續身體機能，除了食用的功能外，食物背後也隱藏了不同的象徵及意涵，通常最容易辨認的是屬於不同國籍或是特定族群的料理，在食用的同時，我們也無形中進入該飲食的歷史與文化脈絡中。而在大陸地區的「擂茶」即是一種流傳悠久的飲食文化。 本研究蒐集了擂茶的相關文獻資料，以文獻來看，大陸地區的擂茶與臺灣的客家擂茶，最明顯的差異性在於對於擂茶的稱呼，大陸地區是以區域性來命名，而臺灣則是標示著族群飲食的特色。在相較之下，關於擂茶的的內容及材料部分也是因地區不同而有所差異。本研究透過文獻的蒐集，比較不同地區的擂茶內容及形製，以及實際訪問臺灣保有擂茶文化的家庭，梳理出擂茶在家庭中的飲食記憶的變化以及擂茶的轉變。 自1998年開始，在地方產業、本土文化意識的抬頭以及社區營造等政策的興起，在家庭中的擂茶被搬上客家飲食文化的舞臺，透過消費行為的模式成為「客家擂茶」。從本研究的觀察中，擂茶到客家擂茶，擂茶飲食文化流傳與轉變，呈現了客家擂茶在地化發展的面向，而這個流變也一直在持續運作當中。 The food has been an important part in human life from ancient times to the present. The basic function of food is to support the physical operation. The foods also convert different symbols and meanings behind consumed. In generally, the food of different nationalities or specific groups is easily identified. Human are into the history and cultural context of food virtually when in the consumption.”Ground tea” is a long circulating food culture in the mainland areas. This research was collected relevant literature of Ground tea. The most significant difference of the Ground tea between the mainland and Taiwan area is that the appellation. In the mainland it is named by regions, but in Taiwan represented characteristics of ethnic food. After comparing, the contents and materials of Ground tea vary from region to region. This study compared the content and shape of the Ground tea in different parts through collecting literature and actual visited the Taiwanese family which preserve the ground tea culture to distinguish the transformed eating memory in the Taiwanese family and the change of Ground tea. The local industry, the awareness of local culture and community development policies had been raised since 1998. The private family’s Ground tea was made into the public stage of Hakka food culture through a pattern of consumer behaviour to profile as “Hakka Ground Tea”. From ground tea to Hakka Ground tea, and the long circulating food culture and transformation of ground tea present the localization development- oriented of Hakka Ground tea on the observations of this research. Additionally this transformation flow has been continued.
