摘要: | 漢字作為記錄語言的符號系統,其產生和演變與文化因素是密不可分的,故在研讀古文字時,應兼容各類民俗、風俗文化,將漢字整體視為一文化現象。因此,可藉由明析漢字構形,窺探造字之時的社會生活情景,以再現古人的認知心理與思想情感。 另一方面,服飾作為區別人類與其他動物的顯著標誌,從禦寒抗潮等實用目的,逐漸轉為裝飾作用,由此產生對於美的藝術追求,無疑是人類物質與精神文明的一大進展。此外,不同時期的服飾更蘊藏著雄厚的歷史文化背景,故深入探討有助於理解古代服飾文化的發展歷程。 本文欲探究古代的服飾文化,藉由《說文解字》中與服飾相關字群,以及文獻典籍記載,同時透過甲骨、金文字形、考古出土文物與史學資料等相互參照印證,期能明確地詮釋各文字與服飾間的涵義,並一窺背後蘊藏的社會文化。 根據本研究,可透過漢字材料瞭解服飾的發展進程,闡明服飾起源及其功能,辨析製作服飾的原料與工具,並探討紡織技藝所涉及的染繪與紋飾。同時,明辨繁瑣的服飾形制,深究其反映出的民俗風情與禮儀文化,涵蓋服飾禮制、服飾審美觀與社會價值等文化意蘊。最後,校補《說文解字》析形釋義的缺失,並總結本文的重要研究成果,詳明本研究的局限性,以作為後續可發展與討論的基礎。;Chinese characters, as a symbol system for recording language, are closely related to cultural factors in their generation and evolution. Therefore, when studying ancient characters, we should be compatible with various folklore, customs and culture, viewing Chinese characters as a cultural phenomenon as a whole. Therefore, by clearly analyzing the structure of Chinese characters, we can glimpse the social and cultural context in which they were created, in order to better understand the cognitive psychology and thoughts and emotions of the ancients. On the other hand, clothing is a significant symbol that distinguishes humans from other animals. Initially, clothing was used for practical purposes such as protection against the cold and moisture. However, over time, it gradually evolved into a form of decoration and artistic expression. This shift towards aesthetics and beauty marks a significant progress in human material and spiritual civilization. In addition, clothing from different time periods contains rich historical and cultural backgrounds. Therefore, in-depth exploration and study of clothing can help us understand the development and evolution of ancient clothing culture. This article intends to explore the ancient clothing culture, through the "Shuowen Jiezi" related to the clothing-related word groups, as well as the records of ancient books, and at the same time through the cross-reference of oracle bones, bronze characters, archaeological unearthed cultural relics and historical materials, etc., it is expected to be clear Interpret the meaning of each character and clothing accurately, and get a glimpse of the social culture behind it. According to this study, the development process of clothing can be understood through Chinese textual materials, explain the origin and function of clothing, analyze the raw materials and tools used to make clothing, and explore textile techniques and the dyeing and decoration involved. Furthermore, discerning intricate clothing styles and forms, and deeply studies the folk customs and etiquette culture they reflect, covering cultural connotations such as clothing etiquette, clothing aesthetics, and social values. Finally, identifying the Missing Analyses of Form and Meaning in the "Shuowen Jiezi", and summarize the important research results of this paper, and specify the limitations of this study, as a basis for subsequent development and discussion. |