客家飲食傳承與族群認同;Inheritance of Hakka Cuisine and Its Group Identification

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题名:	客家飲食傳承與族群認同;Inheritance of Hakka Cuisine and Its Group Identification
作者:	黃鉯玲;Huang,Yi-Ling
贡献者:	客家社會文化研究所
关键词:	客家飲食;族群認同;族群邊界;傳承;Hakka Food;Ethnic identity;Ethnic groups and bou
日期:	2012-07-25
上传时间:	2012-09-11 18:30:26 (UTC+8)
出版者:	國立中央大學
摘要:	臺灣自1980年代後期客家運動開始之後，有關客家的所有文化都逐漸的被國人所重新認識，包括客家過去的生活、穿著、使用器具、飲食…等。此時的臺灣正值政治氣候與社會氛圍的劇烈改變，「族群」的議題成為高度關注的議題，各種社會運動興起，推動族群文化的風潮因而快速湧現，客家飲食研究也在這樣的趨勢下逐漸被重視。但在全球化和飲食消費化的影響之下，現代人幾乎都以外食、異國飲食為主。近年來，客家委員會朝多元化、精緻化的方向深耕，特別在客家飲食方面。整個客家意識的抬頭，或客家論述當中，以族群邊界理論來看，客家菜有它重要的象徵意義，很重要的一塊是客家菜區隔了與閩南的差別，形成了一種族群邊界。客家飲食一方面被政府支持，變成一種消費化、客家餐廳、甚至變成一個客家節慶等等，而變得非常的重要；但在另一方面客家飲食在日常生活的傳承卻在流失。因此，客家飲食表面上好像是很聲勢浩大的，可是實際上它做為一個族群傳承的過程是有危機的。所以在這種狀況之下，我們要去理解，假設客家飲食是一個很重要的族群象徵的話，那它在當代的傳承狀況是什麼樣子？它在一般人的日常生活中是如何被傳承的狀態？世代之間對於客家的認同是否也在轉變？本論文的目的即是：一、客家菜在政府政策的影響及飲食商品化的狀態下，產生什麼轉變？二、客家菜在家庭日常生活中如何被傳承？及探討其中產生的族群邊界與族群認同。研究結果發現，客家飲食在日常生活中的傳承，它隨著權力的崩解、性別的角色轉變，而出現危機，但是透過客委會跟飲食消費的結果，客家菜卻變成一個新的符號意義，活躍在臺灣社會，所以客家菜它已經脫離一個日常生活的脈絡，變成一個新的消費的商品。客家飲食的傳承，已經從家庭進入到市場。家庭中客家菜烹調的技藝傳承可能在消退，但是客家的認同可能因為政府的宣傳、餐廳的大量增加，所以客家認同是上升的，因此客家菜的內涵與傳承模式已然改變。Hakka Movement has begun since the end of the 1980s in Taiwan, all of Hakka cultures-including the past about living, dressing, appliances, cuisine, and so on- have been reconsidered by Taiwanese people. When political and society in Taiwan was drastically transformed, “Ethnic group” becoming the most important thing to concern. The research of the Hakka cuisine that was so many kinds of movements which improve ethnic culture growth was getting more seriously important.Under the globalization and diet consumerism, modern people are almost dining out and foreign food. Recently The Council of Hakka Affairs has developed Hakka culture of diversity and elaboration, especially in Hakka cuisine. There is a symbolic significance of Hakka cuisine, at the view of the theory of ethnic boundary in which a whole rise of Hakka consciousness or Hakka exposition. The most important thing is the segment of Hakka and Minnan cuisine, which is formation of an ethnic boundary.On the one hand Hakka cuisine which is very important to become a kind of consumerism, Hakka restaurant, even become the Hakka festival and so on is supported by Government; one the other hand Hakka cuisine don’t inherit at everyday live, therefore, Hakka cuisine is seen to massive on surface, in fact it has a crisis in which Hakka cuisine become the process of the ethnic inheritance. In this situation, we assume that Hakka cuisine is very important symbolize of ethnicity, what can people be inherited of this generation? How can people be inherited at everyday live? Does the identity change between generations?The following purpose of this paper:1. What kind of change is Hakka cuisine influenced by diet commercialized?2. How is the Hakka cuisine inherited at everyday live? To explore ethnic boundary and ethnic identity.The study finds that inheritance of the Hakka cuisine at everyday life appear to crisis, companioning the collapse of the power, and the change of the gender. But Hakka cuisine has become a new symbol meaning and has been active in Taiwan through the result of Hakka Affairs Council and diet consumerism. Therefore Hakka cuisine leaves the issue of everyday live, and becomes a new consumer product.Hakka cuisine inheritance is from the family into the market. Hakka cuisine cooking skills in the family tradition may have subsided, but the identity of Hakka cultural may increase because of government propaganda, restaurants substantial increase, the Hakka identity is rising, the connotation of Hakka cuisine and heritage models has already changed.
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